Day 24 Thurso to John o' Groats

Did my usual and woke at 5, looked for my phone to do some more blog but couldn't find it easily so did the crossword and some puzzles in the paper. Slept another hour from 6 to 7.

Breakfast is included in the hostel fee, its just a diy job. Cereals,milk, bread and preserves are in/on the fridge, good choice too. We tidy up the sink area then pack up our gear. The welcoming party are not due at JoG until 1330 ish so we go for a look around Thurso and a coffee. 

I catch up with some more blogging and Julian with his favourite paper, the saturday Guardian.

I am in a bit of a dream, forgetting we still have 20 miles or so to ride. It seems nothing now, just a couple of hours. The heavy drizzle had relented a bit now so we set off at an easy pace. First hill of the day arrives almost immediately getting out of Thurso. Its single track and we have to judge whether or not drivers are considerate or not to allow us to continue or force us to stop. The view is minimal due to the fog but it is looking brighter towards the east.

We have seen a variety of pets from alpacas and llamas to these emu's. 

Throught the journey the fields are supporting many young animals who look at us inquisitively as we glide silently by, and Caithness has had a good crop of calves this year. The land is very lush and they look happy in their green fields.

The road has very long straight sections and as the fog lifts we can see a mile or so ahead. One more hill and its only 2 miles to go. We reach the last junction and take pics of ourselves then freewheel downhill to the car park, raising our hands as they do on the last day of the ' Tour '. We've done it!

1242 miles and an untold number of flapjacks and pork pies. 

It has been an interesting, and in places, challenging cycle ride. We have experienced kindness from people willing to go out of their way to help complete strangers and seen such a variety of landscape in this relatively small country of ours. It has been great to do at a manageable pace and i would say to anyone thinking of doing it to just go and do it.

A big thank you to our families and friends who have sponsored us for MS Research and supported us by giving us a bed and food. We couldn't have done it without you!

Day 23 Crask to Thurso

MDriech is what the forecast says, and it is.

We do the last few meters from the Crask to the top of the road then it's a long downhill to Altnahara. We pass 2 cyclists beginning the long grind up and i am thankful to not be going that way. 

Turning right at Altnahara we take the Strathnaver road to Bettyhill. We heard it had been resurfaced recently and sections of it are nice and smooth. The summit of Ben Klibreck is in the cloud but there are plenty of things to look at. The caravan club has a site here and folk are sitting in waiting for a breeze to shoo the midges away. 

The road is very quiet apart from a low loader which passes us for the third time. I have a feeling the driver is dropping off items he has collected in Tain or Lairg for friends. 

There is a lot of deciduous woodland on this side, south of the crask it is mainly conifers. 

We join the main road and 2 miles later we are in Bettyhill. One more hill to ascend before lunch in the cafe at the Tourist Info at the bottom on the far side. 

There is a large map on the wall as you go in to the cafe which makes it easy to see how hilly the afternoon cycle will be. Not too bad it seems. After soup and a toastie i am ready to go. The waitresx kindly fills a water bottle for me and i drop a  tablet in to keep essential elementz topped up. 

Starting off its uphill with no warm up so its nice and slow to get the legs gokng again. Half an hour later a stop iz required and i take off my cycling glasses  ho txke a picture. I put ghem on a wall and think ' better not leave them there ax you mkght fofget them'. Immediately I think No how coujld i do that i will see them next to my bike. 10 mins later we are a mile down the road and I realise i have left them on the wall. Doh! How can you do that I ask myself. I turn around to get them and Julian laughs. 

These are my second pair of the trip, the first fell off and broke after i had hung them on the barbag at a stop. I vowed then to always put them in the barbag to avoid leaving or bresking them. Ah well lesson learned, again. 

Spot the glasses. 

Glasses retrieved i was lucky it was a flat ride and not a big hill liike the one we were about to meet. What a great run down it was, over a mile and not a pedal pushed. Great. 

It is not long before we are ready for another scone and cuppa. The Inn at Strathy appears on cue so in we go and shelter from the drizzly rain that has been on and off today. 

One more hill and its down the other side to Reay. I check the shop for snacky biscuits but sadly none, i take 2 banana's though and we devour them straightaway. 

We turn off onto a quiet road here, a back road to Thurso as recommended by Sustrans. Pity nobody told the locals. It is the local racetrack with few corners and long straights. Everyone of the locals should be made to cycle this and feel the draught as their neighbours pass at 60 or more. One of the worst roads. 

The other question that pops into my head is this, why are the Sustrans road signs so small.?Why are they not the same size as other roadsigns? If they were, perhaps it would remind drivers of the other road users around. A good bit of the Bettyhill to Thurso road is A road and not a single warning sign of cyclists. 

60 miles done, our penultimate day is over. We check in to the private hostel which is ok but a bit rundown from its onetime 4* Tourist board rating. Only a 2 or 1 now from me. The warden is helpful and shows us where to park our cycles then our room and the kitchen/common room. It is warm and has character. Free wifi and even a pc to use which is more than some B&B's these days. 

We go to the hotel next door for food and catch a bit of the Spanish Dutch world cup game. It seems perhaps the chef is also watching it as i have to return my meal, not hot in the middle. The next Lasagne arrives piping hot with a complimentary drink and an apologetic barman. It was very tasty. 

We return to the common room and have our last 2 games of cribbage. Its 1 each but England win the tournament by 3 games. Well done Julian, i'll be back!.

Once again I dont need any rocking. Our 'roomy ' is a strange person, trying to get to Skye and constant questions so while Julian is patient with him i turn over and drift off. I did find out the bus times and where the bus stop was for him but he seems troubled that you cant get a bus from Thurso to Portree. I dont think he can picture a map and realise he is over 100 miles too far north. 

Night night. 

Todays mileage, 60 for Julian, 62 for me.

Total now 1221

Day 22 Cromarty to Crask Inn.

 B'fast for 730 then ferry at 830. We were the only passengers across to the Nigg side. A good view is had of a Rig being repaired in the drydock. 

The route goes for 7 or 8 miles NE then NW a similar distance to reach Tain. Here we make a beeline for the coffee shop and have more fuel. Well I do, Julian had  had porridge and felt ok. 

North from Tain route 1 is on the A9, only for a mile and a half but its long enough and then its onto the Bonar Bridge road. This is quieter but one of the roughest stretches we have ridden on. 

Lunch stop at Bonar bridge, nice tearoom on the corner opposite the hotel. We meet an Ozzie, Bob, doing Lejog supported by his wife in car. He has a Garmin device for his route but has had problems with it. He is doing the end 2 end over 2 weeks. 

Checking the map its 10 miles to Lairg, mostly on a quiet road , then 13 to the Crask Inn. The B road goes past the Falls of Shin but on stopping at the carpark the dreaded little monsters make their presence felt so we don't hang around.  We get to Lairg but there is not a lot to see and the coop is closed due to a bereavement so we carry on. 

To our amazement the sun is almost getting through and we take a break at the side of the road. Several cyclists go by and none stop but we exchange a couple of cheery 'afternoons'. A group of 10 is amongst them , we meet them later at the Crask. They are all from Southend and are raising money for prostate cancer. I get chatting to one of them later in the Crask and he used to go sailing in Burnam on Crouch in the '70's. We talk about Tucker Browns and Joe the boatman.

We get to the Crask about 5 and Mike welcomes us. We check out our accommodation then have a beer infront of the stove which has been lit. We meet some of the cyclists we saw earlier then wash and change for dinner. There are 21 for food tonight so the menu is passed around as there are some limitations on choice and we decide what we want. 

The steak pie is delicious and followed by  rhubarb crumble and ice cream. 

Tonight we are 'camping' in the wendy house. Settling down i spot a couple of holes where the midges are coming in so its out with the sticky tape to seal them up. 

The overflow accommodation - the wendy house. 

I am feeling tired and am very quickly asleep. Two days to go and i can feel myself looking forward to the finish line. 

Day 21 Carrbridge to Cromarty

We were away at 8.15 this morning. Cousin Ronald phoned last night and invited us for lunch at North Kessock so we left early so we could have a leisurely lunch.

The climb up to the Slochd summit was fairly gentle and a good run down to Tomatin followed. We stopped for a tea at a trailer tea stop in a layby where the old Tomatin filling station used to be. Next out the Moy road which is very nice and theback road to Culloden. 

We were soon in Inverness which is very busy then a detour to ascend the east side of the Kessock bridge due to work on the usual western side. 

A great welcome from Ron Bosena and Amanda and a huge spread for lunch. Thank you so much it was delicious. We had a good blether over the 2 hours but we had to return to the road and set off for Cromarty. 

The quiet road to Fortrose is long and and straight with nice views. It goes along the centre of the Black Isle. Then it was past the Rosemarkie transmitter site where i spent a few days duting my time in the BBC. Some more long downhills to Cromarty where we found a B & B. 

We went to the ferry slipway to see where it was and were shocked to see a sign saying something about the ferry being suspended. What? There was a mobile number which i phoned and was relieved to discover the ferry was running, it was just tied up as there was no customers, and it would be there for us tomorrow morning.

Food was had in the Royal Hotel then a walk around the harbour to look at a brigg which was tied up. We were pretty tired so had an early night with lights out at 1030. 

Mileage now over 1100. 57 today. 

Day 20.5 Day off in Strathspey.

Woke up at 0430, couldn't get back to sleep. Finished off yesterdays blog. Checked 'Mikes Bikes' website for opening times - 0930. Phoned just after,  sounded positive, bring bike in at 1230. 

Calum checked over the bike and measured chain wear. New cassette and chain and rear brake blocks also required. Returning at 1645 i saw my bike parked outside. New wheels and clean chain. Looked great. 

Neighbour Raymond had kindly brought me down in his car and would now take me to where i had broken down.   

I wanted to cycle the section from here to Carrbridge so i had a complete route done. There was a huge downpour as we arrived at the spot so we waited in the car for 5 mins. It eased and that was my  cue. Waterproofs on, lights on, 17 miles to go. With no load the bike was strangely lightweight, it almost jumped forward as i pushed down on the pedal. 

Coming through Aviemore I caught up with a Frenchman looking to go to Inverness. He had a huge scale map with hardly any roads on it and did not appreciate the distances involved. I indicated I could take him to Carrbridge and he seemed ok with this. After 20 mins cycling on rhe rough path to Boat of Garten, he checked his gps and found to his utter dismay he had done a big loop. Seems he had started in Tomintoul but I got the impression he was blamiing me. 

I showed him my map and where Inverness was. By the way no english is being spoken, only french, my best effort.  In the end I got him to the campsite at Boat but he was not happy. Tried to tell him his map scale is not good for cycling.

C'est la vie.  

The ride back was fine, and bike is good for tomorrow. Cromarty on the Black Isle next stop. 

Day 20 Birnam northwards

We have to thank John McD for the route advice yesterday, which we took. The C road from Milnathorpe over the hill to Glenfarg and the Bridge of Earn was just fantastic. The uphill sections were fairly easy considering some of the roads we have scaled but the long downhills were fantastic. We were in Perth in no time.  Thanks John. 

Today we hope to cross the next ' barrier ', Drumochter. The forecast for tuesday looks grim so this may be an enforced day-off instead, for catching up with washing. 

Our night in the Merryburn Hotel , Birnham was very good. Hilary the owner  was very helpful, insisting that we bring the bikes into a function room. 

The homemade steak pie really is, the steak is locally sourced and very tasty. 

This was taken in the cellar bar while breakfast was had in the comfortable lounge bar at the front door. 

The morning was bright and sunny and we were keen to get on the road hoping to make Carrbridge. This was going to mean our longest mileage yet of roughly 80 miles but we were confident of making it. 

The route is mostly on the old A9 so mostly a reasonable surface. Ballinluig was our first stop for a cuppa and just as we were getting there we saw this old steam tractor towing a landrover down the A9. 

Just before Pitlochry we came across an ancient monument - the Dunfallandy Stone. Its an early Pictish stone with symbols on it, from around 400 AD. 

Pitlochry was hosting the usual coach tours and it looked like it would be a good day for the shops here. Blair Atholl has some nice picnic tables at the bridge over the Tilt and a wee cafe here beside the carpark. Pedalling onwards we passed busy Bruar on a road section still used to Calvine then it was off-road on the old-road making a long gradual ascent to Drumochter. We came across this small snake on the road. 

On route we watched the Pylon builders rigging the new power lines, working at the ends of the pylon's arms. Its only then you get an idea how big these structures are. The human frame next to the Meccano one. 

We spotted this interesting structure on the way. 

It stayed dry all the way to the pass but then dark clouds gathering in the SW could no longer hold back and joined us for the rest of the day. For me, this point is the psychological barrier of the trip, the end of the beginning and the beginning of the end. For Julian it was the Forth Bridge. 

Our celebratory 'snack ' was - egg mayo sandwich, banana, pork pie, bottle of fruit smoothie, picnic bar and slice of banana loaf. Thanks Jane. 

We couldn't hang around, still 40 miles to go and the rain was not for stopping. I always thought the gradient was level to Dalwhinnie from here but I am happy to report it is downhill. There was a good southerly breeze too so we were able to do 16mph with little effort. However concentration was still required as there is a lot of loose grit and pebbles on the path. 

Over a hot chocolate at Ralia we had decided to stay on the road from Kingussie to Aviemore as the cycle route cuts across to the east and adds a few miles. So 6 miles to K 'ussie , 11 to Aviemore then 12 to C'bridge. 

5 miles south of Aviemore i heard a rubbing noise from the wheels. A first scan revealed no clues so i ignored it but it seemed to be getting louder. Better stop. Spun the front wheel, silent. Tried to spin the rear, seized solid. What? The brake was binding solid onto the rim. How can this be. Deflating the tyre and dropping the wheel out was the only answer. This revealed a split rim. Oh well todays ride stops here. 

A few cars stopped to see if i was ok but thankfully the Snowdrop rescue service was alerted. A very kind driver, also Andrew, also a cyclist said he would stop on his way back if i was still stuck. He did.  And kindly took my bike back to Carrbridge. He explained how the rims wear out with heavy braking and the occassional hole or kerb contact can weaken them. Well i've have had a few of  all of these over 3 weeks. 

So its wheel shopping tomorrow. 

Val had collected my luggage and was now ready to head south to Linlithgow but not before showing me the stocked fridge for hungry cyclists. Thank you Val we had a lovely meal. 

Julian completed the cycle to Carrbridge, putting in the highest daily milesge so far. Well done!

Day 16 Felton to Berwick

Many thanks to Louisa John and Katy for a convivial evening and a super meal. Not to forget we took over every possible drying place and also the luxury of a soak in the bath - heaven. 

From Warkworth to Allnmouth there is a cycleway parallel to the road. Last year it was very rough due to tree roots and a lot of the material having been washed away. It was a nice surprise to find it has been tarred and smooth as silk. 

Julian is ahead and as i round a corner here are a pair of overtrousers on the road. Fell off the back of a bike guv. Honest. (Julians)

As you come over the bridge into Alnmouth there is a small garden area with 2 bench seats. We stop and have a pork pie and share a banana. 

At Embleton I am ahead. I remember from last time a small shop which i intend to get some juice. The small roads there make a quadrangle.  I wait for julian but he does not appear. I go back to the last junction just in time to see a cyclist disappearing around the far corner of the quadrangle.  I decide to nip back to where i had been as Julian would see me there. I sprint along but just in time to see him pass the road end. I head down to that junction but only in time to see a cyclist passing the village speed limit sign. I curse and forego my shop visit. 

It turns out it was not Julian but another cyclist in a red jacket. Julian had left something on the wall at 'Eleanors Tearoom ' and was still behind me. Thankfully we made contact via the mobile. 

We opt to continue on the B road as its quiet and get a straight line to Bamburgh.  I am hungry again and need something hot and filling. I find the butchers and they can heat a Cornish Pastie for me. Julian declines. It hits the spot. 

On we go and see dark clouds ahead. It has been dry all day and just warm enough for light clothing. I can see rain 2 or 3 miles ahead and the air temp has dropped. Oh well we have had 45 dry miles. Luckily we dont get rained on but the roads are soaking after a local downpour. 

We head for a campsite shown on the map. It isn't anymore but a mobile home park. We find out there is no campsite in Berwick now but there is a new hostel. We get the last 2 beds in this modern hostel, an old granary. It is fab. There are nice photos of what the building looked like before the conversion to hostel. An astonishing amount of work has taken place here. 

We put the bikes in the huge bikeshed then have to take them back out 20 mins later as a party of 17 cyclists arrive and threaten to jam ours in. 

Another game of Cribbage and Scotland win. England now lead by 2. 

Day 19 Across the Forth

A second consequetive bright start must mean the weather God is relenting, but why? We pay no homage and only curse.   The sign-fairy compensates however and the route to the Forth Bridge is messy and confusing. But when across it is another milestone passed and the Highlands beckon - though only after the circumnavigation of Dunfermline.

 A play area (but golf prohibited) provides a fuel stop, accompanied by the drone of Sunday lawn mowing from the overlooking detached houses. What do the residents make of two lycra-clad 58 year olds downing pork pies, bananas and cereal bars, eyeing up potential (de-) watering places in a nearby copse?

The signposted distance to Kinross twice increases, suggesting we have become so weary (or so fit?) that we've begun cycling in a time warp. But we do arrive and friends John and Heather welcome us with coffee, energy bars and warnings of midges ahead - it's been a great year for them and proliferation barely describes the effect of their liking for the conditions.

A beautful run over the hill to Perth removes the sense of foreboding that threatened and as a deluge threatens we make it to the Asda cafe with moments to spare before the heavens open and we are entertained through the window by mad dashes to cars to deposit shopping and children. It is becoming something of a habit watching bouncing rain from supermarket cafes, having done likewise the previous evening. Jane arrives with replacement clothing and yet more tasty bites from M&S - many thanks. 

The shower passes, the sun returns and it's alongside the Tay for a few miles before beginning to climb out of the valley - whereupon shower 2 arrives, only to pass over victimless as we shelter beneath the abnormally large porch of a house on a hill. The owner arrives as we leave and takes our improvisation in reasonably good spirits as we thank him for the use of his shelter.

Thence sunnily to Dunkeld where a debate about whether or not to camp is settled by the arrival of a midge cloud - we find a homely Inn within yards and a second consequetive B&B finishes the active part of the day, the weather God having twice vented its fury but thwarted for once - twice!

Another milestone has been reached today. The 1000 mile mark. It feels good to have achieved this and we get a boost to help us on our way. 

Cribbage-England restore a point to lead by 3. 

Miles today, 62.

Day 18 John Muir Way

Saturday 6th. Today we are taking in the East Fortune Aircraft Museum en route to Kinross. It opens at 10.00 so time to get a shop in Dunbar. Its a lovely morning and for once we have packed dry tents away. There was a wee disturbance last night at 1 am when folk in the next camp area , the one with electricity, became fed up with a tent that seemed to be having a party. The message got through ok after a very deep voice hollared SHUT UP  .

This is Belhaven Bay folks with a fine view of the Bass Rock. I often wondered how the local brewery of the same name got such a lovely head on its beer. Well you can see the tide bringing it in twice a day if you ever visit. (Joking)

This pic is taken from near the start of the John Muir way. It is a walking trail tho some of it can be cycled  and a cycle path or road is often not too far away. There is a building in the centre of Dunbar with a Stars and Stripes hanging from it if you are ever down here. 

So we start on a shared section of the JMW but soon we are on the coastal road. There is a good path to keep you off the busy road until East Linton, then a good B road to the Air Museum. 

Freewheeling into the car park area somebody jumps out from the first car and heads directly towards us. Its Jane, what a surprise! We park the bikes and exchange pleasantries. ( ok ok i give her a huge hug )

The prime target here is Concord. It is impressive and larger than i thought. The sleek lines are a credit to the designers though they have to be to go supersonic. The undercarriage has been lowered by an extra 2 feet to get the tail fin to fit under the roof. This upset the balance and a tank of water is hidden in the nosecone to stop it lifting. 

Sadly but understandabley, you cant sit in the drivers seat. Its 1960's analogue technology here and this makes it more impressive to me. 

We spend 2 hours but its not long enough. There is a lot to see among the old airfield buildings including a Vulcan and some old vehicles. Well worth a visit. 

Back to the job in hand, Jane springs another surprise. The photo taken at Lands End had arrived home and here it was to look at. I got a strange feeling and still cant believe i've cycled from there. A bag of food is gratefully received too and we divvy it between us. 

We say our goodbyes and load up once more. The road beckons. Aberlady is next, with a following wind we are ticking over doing 17mph and very soon Prestopans and Musselbrugh are also taken. 

Traffic is busy but we are soon on the off-road Route 1, skirting Newcraighall and Duddingston loch. The sky darkens and waterproofs are on again. We aim for the Meadows and the Eh Cycle Coop for spares and shelter. 

The Meadows are extra busy. Its the moonwalk tonight. Music is playing and a good atmosphere is here with hundreds of people enjoying the event. 

Speaking of events, I am delighted to share the news that daughter Ruth has passed her exams with flying colours. Well done!

Its still raining as we leave the Co-op, a new helmet for me, brake pads for Julian.  I discovered yesterday my helmet had suffered a fatal split after my slide last week  though I had not spotted it. I am now convinced of the benefit of wearing one. 

The downpour intensifies so we take refuge in Sainsburys near Telford Road. It is 4pm and we don 't like the prospect of cycling to Kinross. We eventually opt to find a B&B asap. We ask a local sitting next to us in the cafe and she says ghere is one just up on Telford Road. There is too and we get in. Its relief to be in the dry again. 

A shorter day than planned but that is our gameplan. It is to be enjoyed, rather than endured. Pamela our host recommends the Telford Arms pub just down the road. We are not disappointed and i have my third banana split in 3 days ! There is a quiz night going on so its a tad noisier than usual and an interesting spectator sport. Here is a question that caused obvious uproar and all sorts of comments from the now relaxed participants , drinks going down a treat. 

What is a four letter word ending in K meaning intercourse? I'm sure you all got TALK like me. 

Miles today, 36. 

Day 17 Berwick to Dunbar

Didn't sleep so well last night, 2 snorers and a hot dorm despite the open window. Try to get ready for an 8.30 start but its 915 and then we see the cycle shop is open. This has been a cycle shop since 1936 apparently, the current owner has been here for 28 years. Great selection of bikes and spares.

We finally set off after 930 but we just cant get a momentum going. Its stop start, for the next 2 hours and we only have 10 miles under our belts. 

The views are great, the sun is out and the day is looking good. 

Uphill , downhill , too hot. , too cold , cannot seem to get comfy.  We soon find a border sign and get our pics done. 

Leaving Berwick on route 1 then 76 we are treated to lovely views to the Eildon  and Cheviot hills. A few climbs and some nice downhills. Its sunny too and the heat is building. 

We have the usual pork pie, banana and salted peanuts for a refuel if required. Coming through Ayton i get the impression of a friendly community here. We chat to one resident who is across all the local scandel. She is hosting the ladies bridge this pm and off to make a cake. We skirt Eyemouth and have a long slow hill to get up. Then its a long flat ride along the top aiming towards a windfarm we can see in the distance. 

At last we are treated to a fantastic downhill run. Must be 2 miles down to Pease bay and the small beach where we refuel. 

Its a bit cooler now and a steep climb back to the A1.. The route runs alongside the A1 and then the railway line, getting close to Torness power station. I have driven past here several times over the years but  only today noticed there are no cables or pylons around. 

We arrive in Dunbar and find a nice coffe shop. We discuss the options and after asking about campsites at North Berwick  we opt to stay here. There is a site at Belhaven Bay. We find it and check in. The receptionist tells us about the shop across the road and the pub a big further that does v good meals at a decent price. 

At 1855 we get to the shop just in time before it closes for b'fast items. We head to the pub and find a friendly crowd and yes we can get a meal - 2 courses, 6.95 or  3 for 7.95. Seems a bargain but maybe too good to be true? Well no, really good food at 1980's prices and i have my 2nd banana split in a row for only a pound! Check it -

We are about to leave for the site when we get invited to stay for the quiz night. Hmm ok. It turns out to be good fun and we meet Steve and Debbie who become half  of our team. We don 't win but have a laugh with the locals. The West Barns Inn is THE place around here. 

Walking back we are treated to a nice sunset to round off a great day. 

Today 36 miles. 

Day 15 Castle Eden to Felton.

A  very wet day.

Poor forecast for today. Dave Bell phoned to say he was not joining us for a cycle and I dont blame him. We leave about 9 and head for Sunderland. The wet weather gear is on from the start. 

We get a lovely send off from Meryl and Eleanor, panniers filled with pork pies, buttered scones and a large bottle apple juice. The cycleway is barely 100m from Jjlian 's  house. It is so miserable that there are very few people out with their dogs. Its an uneventful run down to Sunderland where we join the coastal route to South Shields. 

We are following route 1 and there are plenty signposts. We get the pedestrian ferry across to  North Shields and head to Tynemouth. We turn the corner and are blasted by the NE wind and rain. It is cold and miserable. Oh well, head down and get on with it. 

We cycled this route last year and i was intrigued by a road sign on the front at Whitley Bay. It is still there so i thought it should be shared. I don't remember seeing anything in the Highway code about this. 

The cyclepath is shared on the pavement and follows the coastal road for a few miles. The sea remains a draw for the eye, in part for the hope of a hint to a change in the weather. We take respite in the lee of a toilet block, have a pork pie then another snack bar or two to fuel the legs and keep the spirits raised. There are a couple of runners and cyclists out, the usual vocal exchange is replaced by a nod of the head, an acknowledgement of the endurance we each suffer being out in these conditions. 

We are staying with friends tonight north of Morpeth, thank goodness. This is not camping weather. This is however a lovely part of the country for cycling , with lots of villages and places to rest weary legs. The views are lovely when you get to see them. 

We arrive wet and dripping. The bikes get shelter in the shed while we hang wet clothes then sit in the warm kitchen with large mugs of tea. 

Day 14 Easingwold to Castle Eden

Tonight we are staying at Julians house so we opt for an early start to get time to do some bike maintenance. Its 7.00 and we are off. 

There are a few hills in the first 25 miles today but few in the second half. Heading north there are dark clouds ahead so not an immediate threat. We gain height and soon get a view over the Vale of York. 

We have an option to go over Over-Silton Moor but reckon the section through the forest will be muddy. Julians bike clogs up easily wifh mud between the tyre and mudguard so we go for the road. Its a bit longer, bit flatter and a more down than up. The downhill bits are first and we go easy as the narrow road curves with blind corners. The brakes are on all the way down, however I dont see a large metal duct cover which has been polished over the years by traffic and before I know it the front wheel locks up and is off to the left. I am down on the road on my right, bruised and shocked.

Fortunately my panniers make a bridge for my leg, the rear now has a small tear at the top and my helmet saves the head. My jacket sleeve has an oily design but surprisingly is not ripped, just a small hole. My right hip has a lovely bruise and graze, one to match the other side when I fell in my local park just 6 weeks ago. 

Julian helps get my first aid kig out and i get cleaned up.  We limp in to the cafe at Osmotherly and recharge with hot drinks and cream scones. 

Next stop then is Julians bike shop in Stockton, Skinnergate Cycles for new gloves , some isotonic tablets for my drink bottles and I need a compact multi-tool. Julian gets a couple of things too. 

Its a fairly good cyclepath to Castle Eden from here and we check in to the Penton indoor campsite at 5pm. Its been a good day, mostly, and mostly dry although my left foot has been wet all day from the wet grass at Easingwold campsite. If only someone could invent cycle- wellies!

The gear is unloaded and Julians house becomes a drying zone for a time. The washing machine id also put to good use. 

I hear Meryl has been cooking a large meal for us and it is great. Carrot soup, chilli con carne and my favourite pud, rhubarb crumble ice cream and cream. Excellent. Thank you Meryl and daughter Eleanor. 

After dinner Meryl hands me a little red box. It is a collection of donations from neighbours, family and friends for our charity MS Research. I am touched by everyones kindness and interest in our journey. So again Thank You to Kirstie, Margaret, Leanne, Pam and Keil, Trish and Gordon, Chris, Mary and Christine !

Day 13 Hatfield to Easingwold

Slept like a log though did put earplugs in as M18 noise very noticeable. We get up before 7 and are leaving the site at 8.15.

Breakfast is 3 Weetabix, yoghurt and a banana  and tea. Kyle asked if we were doing the ride for a charity and let us stay free. We are donating the fee to the cause. Thank you Kyle. We post the key for the shower block through the letterbox and off we go. 

Today's run is very flat, route 62 through Selby to York on good cycleways, then 65 to Easingwold. We pick our way along some backroads and get onto the Trans Pennine Trail north of Hatfield. Taking a break on a railway bridge Julian checks his tyres out and i dpot a sign alongside the railwY line. Only. 200 miles to Edinburgh! 

We are soon in wide open farmland, very flat and the only high points on the horizon are 2 power stations, Drax being the eastern one. 

There are huge fields of barley, wheat and oilseed rape. The TPT goes along a canal where I see an old lifting bridge near Sykehouse.Then for a couple miles its back onto quiet roads and a bridleway which opens out to a huge field. I stop to check the route and see what looks like a smalll parachute landing not 100m away. Its a drogue for the end of a glider tow line. We are just south of Selby on an old airfield. As we follow the route i spot the glider coming in to land. We watch it take off again. No thermals today so its only a short flight. 

York has great cycleways and we go to a cycle shop Julian knows, then a cafe round the corner where Gail, a colleague of his pops in to see us. A Thank You is required here for a donation to the Just Giving site from a member of the cafe staff . After lunch we pop in to Gail's office next door and news is exchanged. 

Going north from York its route 65 now and we spin along. We soon come past the north end of Lynton on Ouse Airfield and i hear some aircraft close by. Next second 3 light aircraft fly low overhead in formation and do a bump and run. They loop round and land giving us a ringside view. 

Arriving in Easingwold we ask for directions to the shop - its a good size co-op. We load up with b 'fast essentials and head to yhe campsite ln the east side of town. Wrong, no site here since 2003 apparrently, so its off to the other one. Fine here so its the usual routine to set camp and get food. 

The George Hotel is super , roast beef and yorkshire pud hits the spot. 

Back to site and I don't need any rockin '. Too tired to blog. Another 60 mile day and a day in hand now over the plan. 

Day 12 Farnesfield to Hatfield.

The North Wind still blows... And we shall go slower. What are the chances of a north wind for 4 days in a row in May. Its just not canny. 

Morning sun breaking through. 

Julian set his alarm as we hoped to get off earlier. He need not have bothered as this chap and a couple of friends got everyone roused about 5.30.

Today the forecast is good and we have no set target. We are aiming for Rotherham, about 46 miles. We are back on route 6 for the start. As we ascend a ramp back to the old railway line I see i have a hitch-hiker.

At Worksop route 6 quickly deteriorates but it has been a great Sustrans route, well signposted. Its 11.00 and we are searching for a tearoom in Worksop. A pub has just opened beside the canal but alas no food until 12. The barmaid suggests'Jennies ' down the road. But says it is a greasy spoon job. 

We investigate and prove you cannot go on looks alone! It is fab and hits the spot. Staff are friendly and let me charge my phone. 

We follow route 6 again for Rotherham but looking for a shortcut to Doncaster area. During lunch i select aroute and we go for it. I can see there are contours on the map but not able to easily see whether they are going up or down hill. They are going down more than up and we are soonin Doncaster. No campsites here it seems but Hatfield has one. Only 3 or 4 miles he says but it is nearer 8. 

We arrive at the site. It is deserted. We ask a dog walker who says it is often closed on sunday nights. There are signs people have been here this last week. I phone a number that is posted on the reception door. A very helpful Kyle helps us out and we get a key for the shower block. We are the only people on this huge site tonight. 

Tents up we clean up and cycle down the road for tea. We find a reasonable carvery type place and get fed. I still room for a desert and get the chef's Special Banana Boat. It soon disappears. 

 I also get the phone charged up. I am now doing this at every opportunity to keep battery levels up.